Jeppestown & Belgravia Pt.2 (St. Mary’s College, Salisbury House, Rathmines & Thabana House)

In 1891 the first horse-drawn tram moved out of market square and soon connected to such ‘far-flung’ suburbs of Belgravia (via Jeppestown), Fordsburg and Doornfontein to the growing town.

View of Belgravia looking East with Friedenheim in the background

View of Belgravia looking north east with Friedenheim in the background c1900 (Source: Museum Africa)

According to the ‘Director’s Report for the year ending 31 March 1894′, “421 buildings have been erected, including 2 churches, Masonic Temple, Club House, Library, St. Mary’s Collegiate for girls, Police Barracks, etc., etc.; of these 192 went up during the year 1893. The two Parks originally laid out are well maintained and are a source of great attraction. A third square, 450 x 450 feet, has lately been enclosed and planted with trees; this has been given to the inhabitants in lieu of the original Market Square, which was cut up by the railway and partly expropriated by the Netherlands Railway company.”

In 1897, Jeppestown was described as having ‘the most amenities and the best area’ and ‘a neat little suburb on the outskirts of town proper’. Besides the horse trams and later in 1906 the electric trams, the other early benefit was that the government bought some of the land from Jeppe for a railway (the early Rand Tram) to pass through. He agreed on condition there was a station and that every train that passed through had to stop. This was advantageous in that a business hub grew around the station as well as being very convenient for the suburb’s residents. This hub is probably responsible for the survival of so many buildings in the area.

First Jeppe station

First Jeppe Station with Grand Station Hotel in the background (Source: A Johannesburg Album)

Position of first Jeppe Station

Google Earth view showing the position of the first Station (Source: Google Earth)

John Page Drive was built over the original street level railway tracks when Jeppe station was rebuilt and the new tracks dropped below street level in the major construction between 1937 and 1939. Page was Mayor from 1938-39.

St. Mary’s School

St Mary's school prospectus

St. Mary’s School prospectus (Source: St. Mary’s School Waverley 1888-1978

The first St. Mary’s school, established by Rev. J. Darragh in 1888 was in Park Street adjacent to where St. Mary-the-less is now. It was headed by Miss Mary Ross who married the Reverend on 10 September 1889. Directly after the wedding and in the presence of 800 guests, the new Mrs. Darragh laid the foundation stone of St. Mary-the-less which today is Johannesburg’s oldest building.

Mrs. Holmes-Orr took over the school in 1889. By 1890 the school has 58 pupils but was struggling financially. Through some extraordinary fundraising, the school was saved.

St. Mary's fundraising

St. Mary’s fundraising initiatives (Source: St. Mary’s School Waverley 1888-1978)

In 1893, Holmes-Orr bought the school. The children were sent away for the duration of the Boer war and the school was damaged by a nearby factory explosion. After the war, expansion plans for the railway line running through Jeppestown effected the school. The site was expropriated and appropriate compensation paid. Holmes-Orr, with an additional loan from her brother-in-law, built a new school on the corner of Berg and Marshall Street.

St. Mary's College c1910

St. Mary’s College c1910 (Source: A Johannesburg Album)

It was designed by Mr. St. J. Cottrill of Messrs. Brown & Cottrill. The foundation stone was laid by Archdeacon Furse in November 1903 and the building completed in 1904.

St. Mary's College blue plaque

St. Mary’s College blue plaque (Source: Marc Latilla)

It’s a good example of Free Style Classicism and Collegiate Gothic style that was popular for school buildings in Victorian times. It originally had red brick walls as pictured above. There was a basement level and above that seven classrooms, Miss Holmes-Orr’s office, the kitchen, dining room, and a small library. The first floor consisted of the dormitories and the top floor was an attic.

St. Mary's dormitory c1920

St. Mary’s dormitory c1920 (Source: St. Mary’s Waverley 1888-1978)

St. Mary's entrance hall c1920

St. Mary’s entrance hall c1920 (Source: St. Mary’s Waverley 1888-1978)

St. Mary's college 1920

St. Mary’s College c1920 (Source: St. Mary’s Waverley 1888-1978)

St. Mary's tennis courts c1920

St. Mary’s tennis courts c1920 (Source: St. Mary’s Waverley 1888-1978)

In the 1920s, the school faced dwindling pupils and more financial woes. In 1923, with only 13 pupils remaining, it was taken over by the Sisters of St. Margaret from East Grinstead, putting it under the patronage of the Anglican Diocese (something Holmes-Orr tried unsuccessfully to do a few years prior, but was denied as her debt was to heavy. She retired in 1924). In 1929 Miss Evelyn Beatrix Darke became the new headmistress.
The school sold the building in 1933 and moved to the current St. Mary’s in Waverley in 1935.

The old St. Mary’s building is now home to St. James Preparatory School.

St. Mary's 2018

St. Mary’s College building in 2018 (Source: Yeshiel Panchia)

View of the college from Fairview fire tower 2014

View of the back of college and Salisbury House from Fairview fire tower 2014 (Source: Marc Latilla)

Salisbury House, a Victorian design with Edwardian overtones, built in 1903 for Mr P. Chat, was originally called Bern’s Building. The ground floor originally had three open plan shops with window frontage. The first floor consisted of living quarters with separate entrances and a common balcony.

Salisbury House

Salisbury House c1940

Salisbury House 1900

Early 1900s view down Berg street with Salisbury House on the right (Source: Museum Africa)

Salisbury House 2018

Salisbury House from 2018 (Source: Yeshiel Panchia)

Salisbury House 2011

Salisbury House looking east from 2011 (Source: Marc Latilla)

Mr. Anderson, a chemist, bought it in 1908 and renamed it Salisbury House after a teacher, Miss Kate Salisbury from across the road at St. Mary’s Diocesan School. She soon became Mrs. Anderson. The chemist survived until the 1970s.

The building has been used in two South African films: ‘The Foster Gang’ and ‘The Cavaliers’. In 2006, the building was renovated and is now used by the School of Practical Philosophy.

Salisbury House from 2012 with a collapsed balcony

Salisbury House from 2012 with a collapsed balcony after a car accident.

Rathmines – Beardwood House

Rathmines Marshall Street

Beardwood’s House on the corner of Marshall and Scott Street (Source: Google Earth)

Rathmines roof detail

Roof detail from the Beardwood House (Source: Marc Latilla)

Rathmines was the home of Irish architect John Francis Beardwood who came to Johannesburg via California in 1895. He designed Parktown Convent on Oxford Road and Nazareth Home in Yeoville. He also worked on additions to Kensington Sanatorium (now clinic) and St. Mary’s College. In 2014 I came across a collection of old plans and found that Beardwood was also listed as architect for St. Agnes Mansions in Plein Street as well as Patlansky’s Corner on the corner of Joubert & Jeppe Street.

Built in 1903, ‘Rathmines’ was named after the suburb in Dublin where he and his family lived.

Beardwood designed Kensington Sanatorium

The Beardwood designed Kensington Sanatorium was just over the hill from his home and founded in 1905 by the Sisters of the Holy Family. Still stands today although it has been added to over the years.

The Beardwood designed Nazareth Home

The Beardwood designed Nazareth Home in Webb Street in Yeoville 1895. Part of this building still stands after the main block was demolished in 1986

Thabana House

Built in 1903 by builders Arbarren & Freely it was originally called Villa Belgravia and owned by Charles Marx who was chairman of the Johannesburg Turf Club. In 1920 it was bought bt Mr. Errol Hickman who renamed it Thabana House and ran it as a residential hotel. In 1947 it was taken over by the YMCA. In 1956, Mr L. S. Jones bought the property and restored it (it had deteriorated so badly that Jones had to access it from a broken window) to become a private hostel for Jeppe Boys. By 1958, boarders increased enough enough for it to become a ‘school house’, and has since been known as Sable House.

Thabana House c1960

Thabana House c1960

Thabana House from 2014

Thabana House from 2014 (Source: Marc Latilla)

Thabana House side view

Thabana House side view from 2014 (Source: Marc Latilla)

Belgravia, like Doornfontein, would later see a mass exodus of the wealthy as they moved north to Parktown. Many of the large mansions were demolished and large stands subdivided to make way for smaller houses to accommodate the burgeoning middle classes. Although Belgravia is still a residential suburb today, Jeppe is a mixture of commercial and industrial. Very few (if any) of the original houses west of the railway survive. Many houses became blocks of small flats – some of which still survive, while others became buildings, factories or shops – many of which still stand. Other areas close by like Troyeville and Bertrams were also attractive to the working middle class, who during the boom years, started looking for houses for their families. The poorer whites flocked to western suburbs like Fordsburg, Burgersdorp, Vrededorp and Brickfields (Newtown). The even poorer black working class lived in mine compounds, locations near Vrededorp or simply in the veld in derelict buildings or abandoned claims.

Bibliography:

Johannesburg Historical Foundation, undated. Some Historic Drives & Walks of Johannesburg. Written and produced by the JHF

Smith, A, 1971. Johannesburg Street Names. Johannesburg: Juta & Company, LTD

The Star. 5 February 1972. ‘Historic homestead is now a school hostel’ by Denis Godfrey.

MacPhail, M, 1981. St Mary’s School Waverley 1888-1978. Johannesburg: Waverley old Girls Association

http://www.stmarysschool.co.za/timeline/entry/timeline-2018

http://www.practicalphilosophy.org.za/upliftment-salisbury-house/

Beardwood corrections and info supplied by C. J. Beardwood, grandson of J. F. Beardwood.

Updates:

Added additional information and photos on Jeppe Station, St. Mary’s College, Salisbury House and Thabana House 30 December 2018

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This entry was published on February 16, 2013 at 7:19 pm. It’s filed under Johannesburg and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

24 thoughts on “Jeppestown & Belgravia Pt.2 (St. Mary’s College, Salisbury House, Rathmines & Thabana House)

  1. Pingback: Old Johannesburg new blog post up | Marc Latilla

  2. Steve Conradie on said:

    Hi Marc, I came across your site on my mobile. Fantastic! This brings back many memories to a man raised in Fairview and Belgravia. I now reside in Stilbaai, Western Cape, and last visited my old stomping grounds in 1998.
    My late dad was a trades-man, and we moved to Fairview/Jeppe in 1951 from Rosettenville. We lived at 66a Janie Street, around the corner from the Jeppe Post Office. In 1962 we moved to a house in Berg Street, next to Salisbury House, and from there to Browning street in 1966. I have photographs of my mother taken in Main Street, with the old buildings in the background when she was seven years old. Thanks for sharing these images of a past era.

    • Marc Latilla on said:

      Hi Steve,
      Thanks for reading and sharing some of your story. I’d love to see those pictures sometime. I could go past and picture them now…1998 was while ago. This city changes so quickly

    • Dorothy Korunich nee Mac Donald on said:

      Wow I love this site and the old picture. I lived in fox street from 1971 and before that in Jacoba street Troyeville. I went to Belegravia Commerical College as it was called in the 1960’s which was the old st Mary’s College. Dorothy Korunich (nee Mac Donald) korunichd53@yahoo.com

  3. C J Beardwood on said:

    I am pleased to have found your site! Just two corrections.
    1. John Francis Beardwood was Irish. His mistaken American connection is linked to his stay in California for a few months before coming to Johannesburg in 1895.
    2. He named his house in Belgravia, Rathmines, after the Dublin suburb in which he and his family lived.
    I am the grandson of J F Beardwood, living in Greyton, W Cape
    Thanks for including this little bit of history in your website.

  4. Thank you for a fascinating glimpse into the past. I lived in Fairview when we first came to South Africa, in about 1954.

  5. Please consider doing an article on the various parks in and around Johannesburg. Rhodes Park in Kensington has a very interesting history, the old restaurant, now in ruins, was the hunting lodge of Cecil John Rhodes.

    Thanks for the very interesting reading

    • Hi Sharon,

      That’s a good idea. I’ve had a few requests for info on parks so will see what I can do in the future. I grew up in Kensington from 79-87 so Rhodes Park was my playground. I know every inch of it (except the sluice tunnels that run underneath that link up with Bruma in the east and run all the way through Bez Valley to Doornfontein in the west which may or may not be connected to the one that runs through Pieter Roos Park down to Parktown Boys and beyond) I haven’t been there for about 10 years and was saddened to see the pictures of the old restaurant.

      Thanks for reading!

  6. Hi Marc, I see you are a member of my fb group Kensington Kids, please browse through the pics, there are some wonderful old pic of Rhodes Park, as well as recent ones showing the decline, you’re welcome to use them for your intended article.

    I also grew up in Kensington, also spent many many happy hours in Rhodes Park, it really is sad to see the decline. Many of the KK members are keen to see something done, we are going to try lobbying the powers that be, see whether we can pressure them into doing some improvements. Right now the Park is really such a wasted asset.

  7. gary walker on said:

    Hi, there is an old church building in Park street just off John page drive, building is a derelect, any info on this building. It is very old. Regards Gary Walker

    • Marc Latilla on said:

      Hi Gary,

      You may be referring to St. Mary-The-Less? It’s considered the oldest remaining building in JHB and is in pretty good shape. There were some renovations done very recently. There are pictures and it’s history in an earlier Jeppestown post.

  8. Tom Hammond on said:

    I was born in 390a Fox Street Fairview on 22nd April 1937. We moved out of our home around 1952. We visited Rhodes Park and the municipal swimming pool there regularly. Murray Park was also a venue for ball games. I started School at Fairview Primary and then passed onto Troyeville Boys’ School up to standard 5 when I passed onto Athlone Boys’ High School in Bezhuidenhout Valley.I used to walk to and from Athlone.
    The Fire Station was around the corner from our home in Fox Street. I never cease to be amazed at what I find on the internet. Thank you.

  9. Lynette Bird on said:

    Wow how amazing, this brought back memories from when I lived in Belgravia in the 1970’s!

  10. This is so interesting! Can anyone tell me about the property diagonally opposite to Salisbury house? Actually it would be Long Street, 2 streets down on the corner of Main Street. AK

  11. I happen to come across this site, and here I am an old lady of 68 reading about the suburb of Jeppe where I was born. I was born in 33 Betty street in 1948 later moved to Marshall Street, I cant remember the number but I do remember there was a Jewish synagogue on the same stand as the house we lived in. I attended John Mitchell Primary School from 1954 to 1955 my parents then moved to Edenvale. What wonderful memories I have of Jeppe I even remember my first friend in grade 1 was Dawn Fellow and the Headmaster was Mr. Kelly and my grade 1 and grade 2 teacher was Mrs Marquin, thanks for allowing me to share these memories………Liz

  12. Sharon Jane on said:

    Thank you for a very interesting site. It helps to give more life when doing family history.
    I wonder if any of your readers have any knowledge of Houghton college Johannesburg . My father attended there in the 1930’s. I can’t seem to find anything on it!

    • Marc Latilla on said:

      Thanks Sharon. It’s not one I’ve come across, but I’ll look out for it. At some point I will get to Houghton!

  13. Hi, Marc

    Very interesting and informative post. Thank you.

    I’d like to include some of your images and research on a documentary on Hillbrow that I’m editing as a private YouTube vlogger. How can I go about getting permission to use them on the project?

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